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Islay seems the idyllic Scottish Isle ... rolling
hills, small neat villages, historic sites and, of course, eight
working distilleries, plus another on Jura. We were drawn by
the whisky, which, by the way, is no cheaper or available there than here,
but discovered a quiet peace seldom found. Above, Jack explores the
ancient seat of lords, Finlaggan.
(Click thumbnails for larger versions)
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OK, let's face it, we probably never would have paid any attention to
Islay were it not the home of Laphroaig and other single malts we've
taken a liking to.
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The distillery of our favorite single malt (when we can afford it) sits
up the road from Port Ellen seaside and has this lovely view.
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We were among the many "Friends
of Laproaig" and had to see our square yard of their peat bog (too
boggy to find specifically.)
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But we did collect our annual rent (an airline-size bottle of the
spirit), and enjoyed a complimentary tot. We've seen distilleries, so
took no tours. Click here to see the distillery's
history as shown on the casks
in the "Friends" lounge.
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Just next door, is the distillery of our second favorite single malt,
Lagavulin.
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On the other side of the island, in the town for which it is named, is
the Bowmore distillery.
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It's right down the main street from Bowmore's picturesque church, round
so the "demons can't hide in the corners. Our new friend Doreen Bresagk
got a photo of its
cemetery.
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Our new discovery is a whisky from Jura, which is a 5-minute ferry ride
from Port Askiag on Islay. From the ferry you can see its three "Paps."
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Then you drive for about 45 minutes on a single-lane road, minding the
occasional road obstructions and looking out for the occasional stag in
the hills.
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Then you reach Craighouse, where you find the distillery and the Jura
Hotel. In its bar we discovered Superstition, a hearty blend of
different ages of Jura single malts. It has become a new favorite.
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Craighouse has its harbor, complete with this family of swans ...

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... and semi-tropical foilage.
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Islay pheasants seemed content to stroll as we drove our car on a couple
Islay back roads.
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A trip to Finlaggan, the
Centre of
the Lordship of the Isles, was a special treat. The small welcome
center included a model of the
ancient site, which was a short walk away.
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This important part of Scottish history, esp. for the clan of the
Donalds, is actually on three islands, which are now reached over a
marsh by a long boardwalk.
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Our new friend from Germany, Doreen, joined our exploration, here at the
chapel.
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Doreen snapped a shot of us there that we really liked.
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A number of stones from ancient graves remain in the chapel.
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Off shore is the smaller Council Island, which was used for meetings and
ceremonies.
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If you keep going down the road from Port Ellen to the distileries,
you'll find an untended ancient church yard, the site of the Kildalton
Cross from the early 8th century. There are
explanatory signs
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The chapel at the site of the Kildalton Cross, said to be one of the
finest versions of Early Christian crosses, is in ruins.
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... but many stones in the church yard are still standing.
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Inside the walls are a number of grave covers ...
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... and some interestesting details.
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Another interesting cross is across the road on
the edge of rolling hills.
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The view towards Port Ellen.
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We did get out to the RSPB hide out near the Mull of Oa, where we saw
thousands of noisy migrating Graylag Geese.
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And this unusual shrub, which we've yet to identify.
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Doreen took the hike over the hills to the Mull of Oa, where she took
this photo.
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And, this one of the American Monument, which honors 618 American
soldiers and sailors who died in two boat tragedies during World War I.
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Another pretty side trip was to Port Charlotte.
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... where we saw these sheep resting (and praying?) alongside the
harbor.
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One of the things that made our trip extra special was the wonderful
bed and breakfast, The Oystercatcher.
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It is located across the main road from the
harbor in Port Ellen.
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This small seaside park was the view from our window.
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We could also see the monument honoring Islay's war dead.
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Perhaps its greatest feature was the unbelievably delightful host
Lynn Ross, seen here in the back garden.
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Of course, having the "Tardis" for a shower also added to the fun.
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But eventually the end to our visit came when we
had to catch the ferry, at about 6:30 a.m., back to the mainland.
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The sun was coming out as we headed back toward Kennecraig.
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