Palenque is perhaps the most beautiful archeological site we've visited. It was made more magical by having lucked into what became a private tour arranged by the Maya Exploration Center. This group of veteran archeologists are sharing their knowledge about this corner of the Maya world with study groups and interested visitors. One of their teachers, the late Linda Schele, had helped ignite our fascination with Palenque as early as the 1970s with her enthusiastic discussion of the Mayan gylphs in televised documentaries. (A day and a bit were not enough to absorb the overwhelming site. As a result, I've lost track of which buildings were which, which king was which, etc., so I guess I need to go back. ... Mary)

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The famous Temple of the inscriptions, the former site of thousands of gylphs that added much to our knowledge of the Maya. It is where the great king Pakal was buried. The entrance to the tomb goes down this flight of well-lit stairs to a landing and another flight of stairs. A "spirit tube" edges up the stairs from inside Pakal's sarcophagus to the temple at the top of the pyramid. When we were there, limited visits to the tomb were being scheduled. One can barely see the artwork on sarcophagus. A reconstruction of the tomb, including the funeral goods can be found in Mexico City at the Museum of Anthropology and History.
During the 68 years of Pakal's rule, he would have lived and ruled from this magnificent palace and temple. A view of the interior of the gallery at the Palace. Portions of some of the original carvings can be seen at the palace, as well as in the museum on site.
The "T" , as well as the equal-lateral cross, was seen in windows on many buildings , including the Palace. It symbolizes the sun and often had a placement of astronomical importance. This example of palatial plumbing gives new meaning to the word "throne" and brings a grin to the face of archeologist Chris Powell. Examples of a sophisticated water and drainage system are seen throughout the city.
Another carving still visible in the site. The long climb to the Temple of the Cross is one we didn't take. Here is the magnificent view from the Temple of the Inscriptions.
One of the late kings of Palenque is pictures in this reconstruction, left, at its original site and in the original, right, that is on display at Palenque's museum.
Our cabina at Chan Kah Resort, set in the jungle among howler monkeys, tropical plants, and any number of birds we couldn't identify. The huge pool is designed to look like a lagoon. The large dining room is enough to accomodate the many groups that choose Chan Kah as their home while visiting Palanque.
A highlight of the trip was pizza and margaritas at the quirky Don Mucho's (we loved it!*) at El Panchan with our guide Chris and other members of the MEC staff and associates, including director Ed Barnhart, far left, artist and researcher Alonso Mendez. Sara, right, was at the center exploring possible mutual educational programs involving the local Maya.

*So did Tim Weiner in a 2003 travel story in the NY Times. He added "The crowd is a hoot -- three generations of hipsters and tripsters, all friendly and worldly folks, from sophisticated 50-somethings to tattooed teens."

 

Palenque Bonampak Yaxchilan Comacalco Teotihuacan Villahermosa Mexico City

Visit Maya Exploration Center's site ... be sure to check out the links