The most important thing this morning was to visit the Magnificent Frigate Bird nesting area. Some of the males had already found mates so their pouches were deflated; however, most of the males were still working to attract a female and they rewarded us by keeping their pouches inflated so everyone could get great photos. As an aside, our boat is named for these wonderful birds because frigate is fragata in Spanish.

In addition to all the Frigate Birds in the area we encountered more land iguanas sunning themselves in the dry interior of the island.

• Getting Started
• Lovable sea lions, silly birds and blushing iguanas
• New people, new sights, new challenges
• Good-bye to the Galapagos
• A couple days in Quito
• Ecuador Mainland
• Travel tips
• Galapagos Journal, text only
• Ecuador bird photos

Later in the afternoon we visited South Plaza Island where there were many, many mother sea lions and pups. As I have mentioned before, they fascinate me and I could just sit and watch them all day. We also saw hybrid iguanas which are a result of mating between a land and a sea iguana. The hybrids look and act more like land iguanas. They are sterile and cannot reproduce. At the far end of the island is a rookery for young male sea lions that have been rejected from the harem. They hang out on the rockiest part of the island.

Before dinner we all gathered in the lounge. Ivan and the crew had again suited up in their whites. Ivan gave a little thank you speech, Erick passed around a drink he had concocted, there was a toast and we were given our tip envelopes which we are to turn in tomorrow before leaving. Dinner was served buffet-style and instead of fruit there was a cake for dessert. I was given the honor of cutting the cake.

Oct. 10: Another one of those rough passages with little sleep this last night aboard the Fragata. We rose at 5:15 a.m. in order to be in the pangas by 6 to visit Leon Dormido (the sleeping lion) which is a huge basalt outcropping that was once part of Santa Cruz Island. It has broken into 3 pieces and each year the sections move apart a little more as the sea floor moves. At this time of year Leon Dormido looks extremely barren, but Ivan said in the wet season many birds use it as a rookery. It has to be visited very early before the winds pick up. Our two small pangas were joined by two very large inflatable boats holding 25 people each from one of the Lindblad ships that was also anchored nearby.

Back at the Fragata, breakfast was at 7:15 and we were underway, steaming toward San Cristobal as we had to be there by 9 in order to make all the correct connections. We head back to Quito today.

We had about an hour in the little town before Ivan took us to the airport which was another of those “hurry up and wait situations” – a normal happening nowadays but still not fun.

It was pouring rain when we landed in Quito. Waited for about 30 minutes until Gustavo arrived from Neblina Forest to take us to the Hotel Sebastian where Mercedes and Charlie were waiting. It was so good to see both of them. Six of Charlie’s next group had already arrived so he was having dinner with them and we ate with Mercedes. Xavier was at the airport getting the remainder of Charlie’s group so we got to see him for a few minutes when he brought them in to register. We plan to have a low-key day tomorrow. Mercedes offered us Edwin’s services for half a day the following day so that we could visit a little around the city. We took her up on it because it will be a nice way to end the trip.

We retrieved our bags from storage and headed to our room after meeting the remainder of Charlie’s new group. They are doing a couple of day trips from the hotel before they fly to the Galapagos the day we head back to Colorado.

Click thumbnails for larger versions

Male Frigatebirds

Frigatebird chick

Galapagos sunset

From a previous trip ...

Galapagos penguins (above) and a walk along an old lava flow (Dodge)