Most of the statues were set, facing inward, on seaside ceremonial platforms, but Ahu Akivi, above, is inland, with its seven restored moai looking at the village and to the ocean.

Horses, a main form of transportation before the recent influx of cars, graze at the base of Ahu Tahai, walking distance from Hanga Roa.

A kneeling moai, above, similar to those seen on other South Pacific Islands, was discovered buried at the quarry and is the only one of its kind found on the island.

Ahu Tongariki, near Rano Raraku , 15 Moai Ahu excavated and restored in the 1990s

Hundreds of unfinished heads and other statues remain at Rano Raraku, the site of the quarry.

The moai are carved from the volcanic "tuff." Some have flaws, mostly difficult-to-carve basalt. Others were simply left incomplete, including a 60-foot statue attached to side of the extinct volcano.

A strange "soup" brews in the crater of an extinct volcano on Rapa Nui, above. Reeds used for boat building grow here

Not all moai have been restored to upright positions and lie face down, probably as the result of ancient tribal feuds.  

The island's largest ahu has been restored at isolated Tongariki, above, where 15 moai direct their benevolent and protective gazes toward the site of ancient village. This site may also have been aligned to be a basic astronomical calendar, using the direction of shadows cast by the sun at certain times of the year.

Beaches are few and small on Easter Island, but Playa Anakena, above, is popular for swimming and sunbathing. Bring your own food and water from town, about 18 miles away.

Children, in body paint and ancient costumes, take part in a presentation of Rapanui lore held in torch-lit backyard.  A member of the Mata Tu'u Hotu Iti Group illustrates the art of telling stories and making curses with string.

Frosty, foamy pisco sours, made with Chilean grape brandy and lime, are a great way to start a meal of fresh fish at Azul Tahai on Hanga Roa's main street. Part of the fun is the eclectic selection of music CDs: traditional Rapa Nui chants, bluesy chamber music, the Swedish pop vocal group ABBA, or "Jamming with Edward," an impromptu jam session by Rolling Stones musicians.

The small native market, above, offers stone and wood carvings, shell work and other souvenirs. It opened from 8 a.m. to noon.

Downtown Hanga Roa stops for lunch from about 1 to 3 p.m., except for cafes and the local version of a supermarket.

Business was slow but steady at Easter Island's main post office in Hanga Roa, above.

There may now be big name hotels on Easter Island, but we enjoyed their gardens at the Hotel Otai, above. See more stars than you can imagine from the pool deck or grounds at night.