To
see larger photos, Horses, a main form of transportation before the recent influx of cars, graze at the base of Ahu Tahai, walking distance from Hanga Roa. |
Rapa
Nui does not appear on most world maps, but its ancient giant stone heads and statues are
internationally recognized icons for the mysteries of the past. If shown, it will be a tiny dot in the southern Pacific Ocean, called Easter Island or Isla de Pascua. Developing outside the mainstream of early explorers, zealous missionaries and modern cruise ships, this isolated island has a mind of its own. Some of the mysteries of Rapa Nui are being solved, or at least being answered with educated guesses. Much is still the subject of controversy among anthropologists, archaeologists, mystics, historians and locals. Most of the 2,800 residents are more concerned about how to live in today's world, protecting and sharing their limited resources. Rapa Nui is one of those places that invade our consciousness at an early age. As a 12-year-old sitting in a dormered bedroom in Kansas City, I wondered how those huge rock carvings, some over 30 feet tall, were made and moved to their seaside platforms. The fascination remains. The statues, or moai, were commissioned to honor the heads of families of the ancient tribes who inhabited the island, according to our Rapa Nui guide Cris Teao of Aku Aku Tours. Made from volcanic "tuff," they are lighter than they appear, yet still weigh 16 tons or more. Many were fitted with red scoria hats or topknots. Recent discoveries indicated that coral was used as the whites of eyes. |
 Hundreds of unfinished heads and other statues remain at Rano Raraku, the site of the quarry. |
Hundreds of these figures, some
unfinished, remain in the quarry, which spreads across the extinct volcano and its crater
in the center of the island. No one knows why production suddenly stopped, probably in the
17th century. The last upright moai were seen standing in 1838 by a French admiral. By the
time missionaries arrived in 1864, they had all been toppled from their stone platforms,
possibly in tribal wars. Many circling the island are still face-down, looking less
imposing than their restored brethren. The restoration did not begin until this century, with the help of various archaeologists and others. A Japanese crane company hoisted one group back into place. They asked for no pay, only permission to use the job in their advertising. Island lore contains tales of tribes of "Long Ears" and "Short Ears," although those terms have recently been questioned. An estimated 20,000 tribe members competed for island resources at one time. Several theories have also arisen as to how the huge statues were moved from the quarry, down specially constructed roads to the ahus, or ceremonial platforms. Tales of the moai "walking" may have referred to their being moved upright by large groups of men. Some say huge slings were used. Others say the trees on the island were cut down to be rollers until there were no more forests. |
 Not all moai have been restored to upright positions and lie face down, probably as the result of ancient tribal feuds. |
The "birdman cult"
developed in later years. Designated candidates or their stand-ins would train for weeks
at the sacred seaside site of Orongo, before descending the treacherous cliff, swimming
rough seas on a small reed raft and camping, perhaps for weeks, on a nearby rocky islet.
The goal was possession of the first sooty tern egg of the season. Upon safe return of the
egg, the candidates would be named "birdman" and co-ruler for the year. These ceremonies are the story basis for the 1994 action film, Rapa Nui, co-produced by Kevin Costner. The making of the movie, which takes great liberties with local lore, resulted in a number of changes on the island, including a major influx of vehicles and a minor exodus of young people. Another Rapa Nui mystery is the script found on wooden tablets, called "kohau rongo rongo." Little progress has been made in deciphering the cryptic glyphs carved into both sides of the planks. It is believed that these were staffs used by chanters to remind them of past history and tales. Archaeologists estimate that Rapa Nui was settled by sea-going Polynesians about 450 A.D. Others, including Kon-Tiki author Thor Heyerdahl, suggest the settlers came from South America. More recent findings, including blood tests of remaining natives of the island favor the Polynesian ancestry. The first recorded observations of the island were made by a Dutch expedition, led by Admiral Jacob Roggeveen, which landed on Easter Sunday, in April 1722. Not all visitors to the shores came and left with only tall tales and some fresh supplies. In 1862, Peruvian slave traders raided the island for workers for plantations and guano (bird manure) mines. The few who finally returned to Rapa Nui brought diseases that reduced the dwindling population to less than 300 by the early 1900s. It was at this time that much of the remaining oral history was lost. Chile, 2,300 miles to the east, annexed the island in 1888 and still administers it. Most of the island fell under the control of a Chilean-Scottish sheep rancher from 1897 to 1952. Grazing animals diminished the remaining ground cover. Although it is usual for islands far from a large body of land to have limited species of birds, Easter Island is an extreme example. Only four species of land birds are listed on the island: Chilean tinamou, common diuca-finch, Chimanga caracara and English sparrow. Being a tour sponsored by the Audubon Society, our group spotted all of these, and a fifth -- rock doves, commonly known to non-birdwatchers as pigeons. |
 A member of the Mata Tu'u Hotu Iti Group illustrates the art of telling stories and making curses with string. |
An annual local festival, usually
in late February, celebrates the "old ways" with competitions, such as body
painting, swimming and string art, similar to "cat's cradle." One night we piled
into a mini-van and took a 10-minute ride to a large, wooded back yard, lit by torches. It
was a special performance of these folk arts by the Mata Tu'u Hotu Iti Group, which opened
with piercing calls from a conch shell. That is about the only similarity to a Polynesian nightclub show. The dress was earth-toned body paint, feather headdresses, leather thongs and occasional decorated belts and capes. The primitive dances, accompanied only by rhythms played with rocks, told of spirits who both aided and avenged. The other authentic demonstrations were performed with athletic vigor and ferocious enthusiasm. |
 Downtown Hanga Roa stops for lunch from about 1 to 3 p.m., except for cafes and the local version of a supermarket. |
To get the most out of Rapa Nui,
allow yourself time to get into the rhythm of the island and adjust to the time schedules
of those who live there, mostly in the capital of Hanga Roa. This is a small town, and it
is likely to remain that way. Businesses on the island must belong to Rapanui family
members and international hotel and restaurant chains are unknown. Sipping pisco sours or fresh pineapple-melon juice on the porch of one of the several open-air cafes, one can observe downtown Hanga Roa. Lunch at the tiny Azul Tahai, possibly the island's hippest restaurant, may be freshly made gazpacho (a cold tomato soup), sautéed local tuna, ceviche (fresh fish marinated in lemon juice) or white cheese in olive oil and oregano. Mellow dogs and cats, and the occasional chicken, meander along the paved brick street. The shops are small and few, including a few souvenir stands, a hardware store and an Internet outlet. A chestnut horse waits, tied to a tree, while its rider visits the Hipermarche (supermarket) for packaged groceries and sundries. It is open all day, and much of the evening. The local market, which features stalls with fresh fish, produce, meat and souvenir wood and stone carvings, starts to set up at 8 a.m. and closes for the day at noon. Most island businesses close from noon or 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch. Leave some time to lie on your back and look at the stars, more than you've probably ever seen before. Find the Southern Cross. Count shooting stars. Question the zigzag movement of an apparent satellite. Until the 1960s, the only way one could reach Rapa Nui was by boat and few called. The 45-square-mile triangular island, with three extinct volcanoes, is only 15 miles long and 7-1/2 miles wide. Mataveri Aeropuerto was expanded by the American Air Force in 1966 and again by NASA in 1986 to prepare it as an emergency landing base for the space shuttle. Now, LanChile flies in several days a week, alternating directions connecting to Santiago, Chile, and Papeete, Tahiti. The Santiago-Easter Island flights have a reputation of being heavily booked. Round-trip flights from Miami, through Santiago, run about $1,600. It would cost about the same, but probably involve more flying hours, to fly to Easter Island from Miami through Papeete, Tahiti. Our tour went this route, taking a further 10-minute flight from Papeete to the more relaxed, less commercial island of Moorea. Allow a day to recover from jet lag, going this round-about route. The time in Easter Island is the same as Central Standard Time in the U.S. The money in Easter Island is the Chilean peso, about 485 to the U.S. dollar. American dollars are accepted anywhere on the island, including the post office, however the exchange rate may be high, especially on small purchases. Money can be exchanged at the bank in downtown Hanga Roa. The official language is Spanish. Many islanders also speak the native language of Rapanui, and it is taught in school. English is spoken at most places tourists visit, and English-speaking guides are available. Knowing a little Spanish is helpful. Rapa Nui is a place you can easily visit on your own, without a guided tour, especially if you're not trying to pinch pennies and willing to do a little planning. Leave yourself enough time to get your bearings. We were there three nights, but that was part of a small guided tour, with a leader who knew the island. I'd have preferred four or five, to do some additional exploring on our own. Room rates in the many small island hotels vary greatly, but $104 a night will get you an airy garden double room at the Hotel Otai, with private bath and a light breakfast. This hotel is around the corner from downtown, across the street from the wee post office and only a few minutes from the airport. Don't worry about traffic noises, you're more likely to be awakened by a crowing rooster or barking dog. Mini sports vehicles, many four-wheel drive, rent for about $80 a day. There are at least two tour companies on the island that have air-conditioned mini-buses. There are enough places to see to fill up three days, each done in half-day jaunts. There are few beaches and almost no coral reefs. The main beach, Playa Anakena, is about 18 miles from Hanga Roa and has a restored ahu with five moai. Bring your own food and drinking water. Some things haven't changed on Easter Island. The ancestors believed the moai watched over and provided for their descendants in the villages. The restored moai may be doing just that for today's Rapa Nui. |
